This is where most ramps stop - The angle. This is created for you, the one time ramp builder so you can mold the angle 6 inches at a time. In my early days of building ramps, this is exactly what I used to create my Rev.1, Rev.2 or Rev.3 angles. I came up with this so you don't have to find a shop that can bend the metal to my exact angle. Having metal bent for 2 side rails would easily add another 200 bucks to your final ramp costs.
NOTE: This is not on a constant radius, it is an Elliptical Radius. Yes, it takes longer but it is worth it. Be sure to match this up to your cardboard drawing. The goal is to have the final angle within 1" of the specs from top to bottom.

I advise you to use .120 wall tubing. [1/8"] If you are using a stick welder, you MUST use .120 wall square tubing or you will probably have holes burned through at every weld. If using a Mig welder with gas you could use .065 wall square tubing. If you don't know the difference between the the welders I just mentioned, don't go any further. You are already over your head.



The above weld was done with a MIG welder. When done correctly a weld is stronger than the metal. This exact weld held up to a 10,000 pound monster truck that went out of control and hit my first Rev.2 ramp. I was able to use hydraulics to straighten the ramp and the lower supports and it is back in operation today. The welds held but some of the metal tore within 1/4" of the welds. That is how it is susposed to work. Be sure to test your welds when starting to be sure your speed and temperature are correct.



Bad Boy. Never use a gap like this in your joints. While this can be welded properly, it is only advisable for the very experienced welder. This is hard to fill if using the thinner .065 thick metal that my customers and I use on Rev.2 and Rev.3.



See, I told you so. Learn from me and live easy. A little extra time spent in preparation will save a lot of time welding and grinding



Weld the crossmembers {they are spaced every 12"} on all sides. (the bottom and Leading End sides have not been welded on this yet) Use as little heat as needed. Notice the clean weld on the side of the spar and how I did not weld the top of the spar but the gap is closed. I suggest you weld these fully and then grind them almost flush so the sheet metal or wood will lay flat when done.The more you weld on the crossmembers the more the metal will expand and the more the angle will change. You will then need to go back and tweek the angle again.



You can use wood for the top surface but I suggest you use 16 gauge sheet metal and then cover this with 3/4" #9 Raised Edge expanded metal. Do not use the flat kind. If you use wood, you MUST put a layer of sheet metal down first. You can use only a 15 - 3/4" wide piece and weld it in place from the top to the bottom and centered. While you can use 1/2" plywood, I advise you to use at least 3/4" plywood, preferably marine plywood, and bolt it to the framework. Then, use outdoor wood primer with sillica mixed in and roll and brush this on the top surface as needed. I have also used a sprayer and sprayed the top, then thrown sillica on the wet paint. Then, I sprayed another coat of paint over this. This will work OK but I prefer to use sillica in the paint. {Sillica can be bought at hardware stores and is used most often for sand blaster equipment}

Not exactly rocket science, is it! I built my first several ramps in my back yard. Just some jigs, a lot of money in tools and a very understanding wife.

If you have any questions about building this ramp, email me at the address below. I won't answer all questions as these are found on the assembly document for Rev.2 and Rev.3 ramps.

rampman [at] fmxramps.com To reduce SPAM, replace the [at] with @ and remove the spaces before and after the [at] .